Owner, JB Mountain Bikes
|Photo courtesy of New Zealand Press Association|
Bike – Specific bikes for snow riding are becoming increasingly popular, including “fat bikes,” which come equipped with exceptionally wide 4” and 5” super fat tires. The truth is, almost any bicycle can be ridden year round. Many cyclists choose to use an old mountain, road, or cyclocross bike during the winter to spare their new(er) bike the additional wear and tear created by winter riding conditions. It only makes sense that you wouldn’t want to take your brand new road racing bicycle out when the streets are covered with salt, cinder, and possibly ice. Additionally, some riders will attach fenders to both front and rear tires, so as to minimize road / trail spray. The important thing is: most any bike will provide comfort and safety during winter rides, as long as it is in good working order and you are paying attention to the trail or road and riding at your own level.
Tires – Tire choice can be very important depending upon the kind of winter riding a person is looking to do. For trail and off-road riding, larger volume, knobby tires, and even tires that include metal studs (if riding icy terrain) are excellent choices. For unpacked snow, your only choice may be large volume mountain bike tires. (If the snow is deep enough, it may be “fat bike only” terrain.) In any instance, go with a lower tire pressure than you would for your normal MTB riding. The lower pressure tire will flatten out more on the surface of the trail and will consequently provide a more secure grip.
For cyclists looking to stay on the road during the winter, a “maximum protection” road tire is essential, such as the Gator / Gator Hardshell series from Continental. These tires are built with an extra layer of protection against flats, which happen more frequently during the winter, mostly due to the sharp cinder that is spread on the roads. Unexpected roadside flat changes can really diminish a cold weather riding experience; so minimizing them is crucial to your enjoyment.
Clothing – When it comes to winter riding, the cyclist’s mantra goes something like this, “the key to staying out and on the bike is staying comfortable, the key to staying comfortable is staying warm, and the key to staying warm is layering.” To this end, always start off with a base layer to wick away moisture from your body. Wool is preferred, but there are many good synthetic materials that also do a nice job. From there, depending upon how cold it is, and how long you are going to be out riding, you may want to add an additional base layer. The base layer(s) are usually followed by a light, insulating layer that will act to trap in heat. Finally, either a long sleeve winter jersey or a long sleeve winter coat can be added as the outermost layer. It’s particularly useful if these out layers include zippered vents (usually under the sleeves) so that the rider can zip and unzip to regulate the amount of heat being retained.
The legs, feet, hands, and head are next on the list. For your legs, I heartily recommend insulated bib tights as opposed to standard tights since bib tights give more coverage, stay in place better, and ultimately keep you warmer. For the feet, I recommend a good pair of wool socks and, if the temperature goes low enough, some toe covers or booties. If you’re willing to invest the extra money, winter specific cycling shoes are the next step up. For hands, insulated cycling or ski specific gloves rated to the temperatures in which you intend to ride are essential. Nothing will make you turn around quicker than cold hands and painfully numb fingers. Additionally, a winter riding hat or skull cap for under your helmet is a must, as is cycling specific eyewear (designed for minimal fogging since it allows for specific airflow behind the lenses).
Lighting – Given the fewer daylight hours during the winter, you may need lights, especially if you plan to ride after work. The tail light is most easily addressed. All you will need here is an inexpensive red “flasher or blinkie” light so that anyone approaching from the rear can spot and safely avoid you. For the front light, you must ask yourself: do I just need to be seen, or do I also need to see? For the latter, when a rider is riding aggressively and wants to be able to react as if they were riding during daylight, a high quality helmet (recommended) or handlebar mounted lighting system is the only way to go. These can cost between $200 - $400, but are well-built, reliable, and have a battery life which, when fully charged, will assure 3 – 4 hours of high visibility light. If, however, you only plan to pedal around the neighborhood at dusk, a much less expensive handlebar mounted light will do the trick.